Ever since we learned how to work with metal, humans have been designing and wearing jewelry. Over the years, many distinct jewelry eras have emerged. Each era has been defined by its own unique styles, and impacted by the historical context that surrounded it. This blog will dive into each era, giving you the scoop on what made each of them so interesting.
Victorian Jewelry
During the peak of the British Empire’s power, entire eras of art, fashion, and culture were shaped by the royal family. The Victorian era was named for the particularly influential Queen Victoria, who became queen at just eighteen years old. She lived her entire life in the public eye, and her tastes in fashion, decor, and jewelry had a huge impact on the British public. In turn, those styles spread to the rest of Europe and, eventually, the rest of the Western world.
Because her reign lasted 63 years, trends underwent several dramatic shifts as Victoria grew older and experienced different moods and events. Scholars divide the Victorian Era into several periods: the Romantic Period, the Mourning Period, and the Aesthetic Period. Each corresponded with different phases in Queen Victoria’s life.
The Romantic Period is associated with the courtship and marriage between Queen Victoria and her husband, Prince Albert. The young couple inspired plenty of sentimental motifs in fashion and jewelry, including hearts, hands, crosses, arrows, anchors, clovers for luck, and lover’s knots to symbolize romantic ties. Jewelry from this era is typically very opulent. Popular pieces included cameos, elegant pins for the hair, and acrostic jewelry, in which the first letter of each gemstone used in the piece spelled out a word. For instance, a ring with a diamond, emerald, amethyst and ruby spelled out “dear.”
It was also some of the first jewelry to be mass produced rather than made by hand, as the Industrial Revolution swept through Britain. Thanks to the California Gold Rush of the mid-1800s, high-karat yellow gold became a more popular material for jewelry. Previously, jewelers had used other precious metals or lower karat weight gold and gold plating.
The Mourning Period, sometimes called the Grand Period, encompassed the years after Prince Albert’s death. Queen Victoria grieved her loss openly, wearing black for the rest of her life. World events seemed to match her solemn mood. Overseas, the American Civil War unfolded, while a period of revolutions and upheaval swept across Europe. Jewelry in this era matched the tragic events of the time. Pieces were no longer so colorful, bold, and opulent. Jet, onyx, and other black gemstones were common sights. People often wore jewelry specifically to honor their deceased loved ones, called mourning jewelry. Popular motifs included religious imagery, such as crosses, alongside hearts and stars.
While Victoria never stopped grieving the loss of her husband, she eventually began to participate in public life again. The world also entered a more peaceful era, as many of the wars raging across the Western world came to an end. This period corresponded with another shift in trends and styles, now known as the Aesthetic Period. Industrialization sped up, making jewelry even easier to produce and ever more accessible to the public. But popular symbols at the time seemed to deliberately contrast industrialization. Nature motifs became especially common, and included various animal heads, leaves, vines, flowers, stars, horseshoes, and birds.
It’s hard to find authentic Victorian Era jewelry these days. However, it’s very easy to find Victorian-inspired styles! These designs may be almost two centuries old, but they’re still influencing the way we wear our jewelry today.
Edwardian Jewelry
Following Queen Victoria’s death in 1901, her son, Prince Edward, ascended the throne. The light and airy jewelry that became popular toward the end of the Victorian Era continued to define the styles of the Edwardian Era. Light colored metals like silver, white gold and platinum were combined with light colored gemstones like pearls and diamonds.
Edwardian fashion valued intricate design. Despite the fact that machines were more capable than ever of producing mass-manufactured jewelry, they still couldn’t replicate the delicate techniques of a craftsman. For that reason, tastes turned back to hand-made jewelry. Popular designs often included filigree and lacework. Many pieces featured bows, ribbons, and tassels.
The prevailing attitude of the Edwardian Era was one of nostalgia. As the world moved quickly into the 20th century, many people found themselves longing for simpler times. Edwardian jewelry was kept rather simple to reflect those desires. It was very well made, and it’s not uncommon to find Edwardian jewelry in good condition even over one hundred years later.
Art Deco Jewelry
Welcome to the Roaring Twenties, a time of luxury, extravagance, and fun! During this period of rapid modernization, more people moved to the cities than ever before. The economy changed dramatically, as factories became more and more efficient and some office jobs began to emerge as an alternative. Women were also beginning to enter the workforce. It was a period of prosperity, especially in the United States, and trends changed to reflect that.
Art Deco era jewelry was elegant and lavish. It featured vibrant gemstones like emeralds and sapphires, as well as plenty of gold. It was also defined by a fascinating fusion of past and future. Art Deco jewelry was inspired by some historical motifs, especially those from Ancient Egypt. This may sound strange, but it makes more sense when you know that, at the time, archaeologists were making widely publicized discoveries of Egyptian artifacts and ruins. Thanks to the newly invented telegraph and telephone, as well as the increasing popularity of international news reporting, these Egyptian discoveries made their way to the States, where they heavily influenced Art Deco design.
At the same time, Art Deco jewelry embraced the future with its clean lines and sleek, geometric patterns. Symmetry was prized, as were dynamic silhouettes. Though Art Deco jewelry often leaned into the lavish tastes of the day with these big and bold designs, the pieces were usually light and easy to wear. Styles like tennis bracelets, drop earrings, and cocktail rings–all still beloved today–became popular as people sought to flaunt their status with flashy looks. This was especially true in large cities, where burgeoning social scenes meant more occasions for parties, galas, and cultural events.
Mid-Century Jewelry
The two decades following the Roaring Twenties marked one of the most difficult, tumultuous periods in history. By the time the world emerged from the Great Depression and World War II, people were ready to feel optimistic once more. The 1950s and 1960s provided them with an opportunity to do just that. America found itself in an era of unprecedented growth and prosperity. People embraced luxury once more, taking advantage of readily available products that had been difficult or impossible to find during the war.
Mid-century jewelry reflects many of the same motifs and themes as other examples of mid-century design, such as art and furniture. The idea of modernization and the space age inspired some sleek looks and starburst shapes. An increasingly cohesive pop culture, promoted by television and the radio, helped popularize designs featuring familiar characters like Mickey Mouse. Walk into a mid-century jewelry store and you’d likely find plenty of bright colors and big gems.
It was also the golden age of advertising. Perhaps one of the most era-defining ad campaigns was the “A Diamond is Forever” campaign, launched by the De Beers diamond company in 1948. This ad campaign solidified diamonds as the official stone of engagement rings. Before this point, while many people did use diamonds in their engagement rings, colored gemstones were also popular.
Explore Vintage and Estate Jewelry at Noe’s Jewelry in Raymore, Missouri!
Now that you know a bit more about some of the most famous jewelry design eras, it’s time to discover some gorgeous vintage pieces for yourself. Noe’s Jewelry in Raymore, Missouri is proud to have one of the most diverse and incredible collections of vintage and estate jewelry in the Kansas City area. Step back in time and find jewelry from and inspired by the periods you read about in this article. Our expert staff is happy to guide you through time and help you find a vintage piece you’ll cherish forever. Or, start your journey online by checking out the estate jewelry listings on our website.